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On this page: Purpose · CPU · Motherboard · RAM · Storage · GPU · PSU · Case · Peripherals · Compatibility

Before you even look at a single part or compare prices, be brutally honest about what you are building this PC for and how to pick PC parts for your build. Why? Because every component decision, from your CPU to your case, hinges on what you are actually going to do with the machine.
Start with this simple question:
What will this PC spend 80% of its time doing?
Here are the common scenarios:
If you are building a system for general office work, school, or everyday tasks like:
You do not need a powerful CPU or a dedicated graphics card. You want:
A build like this will benefit from:

If you are gaming, your priorities shift hard:
Ask yourself:
Competitive gamers want high FPS at 1080p, so CPU matters a lot.
Story focused gamers want higher resolutions and better visuals, so GPU matters more.
Building a PC for video editing, 3D rendering, livestreaming, or photo work?
You will need:
Also important: airflow, quiet fans, and reliability. You do not want crashes mid render. See our Silent PC Build 2025 guide.
Trying to do a bit of everything?
You will need to balance:
This is where most people live, so we will help you stay flexible without overspending.
| Use Case | CPU Priority | GPU Priority | RAM | Storage | GPU Required? |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Office / School | Low | None | 8–16GB | SSD | ❌ Use APU |
| Gaming | Medium | High | 16GB | SSD + optional HDD | ✅ |
| Streaming / Editing | High | Medium | 32GB+ | Fast SSD | ✅ |
| Hybrid, Game + Work | Medium | Medium | 16–32GB | SSD + HDD | ✅ |
Ready to plan a parts list? Start with our PC Part Compatibility Mistakes checklist to dodge the usual traps, then price it out with PCPartPicker.
Your build does not start with a budget, it starts with your intent. Once you are clear on what the PC needs to do, the rest of the parts will start choosing themselves. Bonus: If you need to make decisions about this build and are unsure, ask these 15 questions before building a PC.

The CPU, or processor, is the brain of your PC. It handles everything from launching Chrome to running games, compiling code, rendering video, and pretending you are not procrastinating on Reddit.
But here is the thing, you do not need a 500 dollar CPU to build a great machine. You just need the right CPU for your goals. If you want to dig deeper, check out these guides:
In 2025, both brands are excellent, and fanboy wars are a waste of time.
| Brand | Pros | Watch Out For |
|---|---|---|
| Intel | Great single core speed, excellent for gaming | Older motherboards may not support latest CPUs |
| AMD | Solid all rounders, strong multi core performance | Older Ryzen chips may need a BIOS update |
Tip, do not pick based on brand. Pick based on performance per dollar and compatibility with your motherboard.
Your CPU needs to match your motherboard socket type:
You cannot shove a Ryzen into an Intel board and hope for the best.

Do not just count cores. A fast 6 core chip can outperform a slow 8 core in gaming. Clock speed and architecture matter too.
If you do not plan to buy a graphics card, you need a CPU with built in graphics:
For basic office or browsing builds, a CPU with integrated graphics saves you money.

Some CPUs come with coolers. Others do not.
| CPU | Cooler Included? |
|---|---|
| Intel i3, i5 non K | Yes |
| Intel K series, overclockable | No |
| AMD Ryzen 5 5600G | Yes, decent |
| AMD Ryzen 7 5800X | No |
If your CPU does not come with a cooler, or you want quieter temps, factor in an aftermarket one.
Do not throw money at a CPU just because it is future proof. CPUs age slower than GPUs, but still:
You can always upgrade later if your motherboard supports newer chips. That is where smart socket planning pays off.

Before you buy anything, run your planned CPU and motherboard combo through compatibility tools. If you are buying second hand, learn how to test a used CPU before installing it so it does not fry your whole rig.
If you are buying used, double check stability before install with our Used CPU Testing Guide.
Your CPU should match your needs, your budget, and your motherboard, in that order. Do not get distracted by fancy naming schemes or core counts. Pick the one that does what you need, fast, cool, and reliably.
“Still comparing CPUs? Use these official tools to see detailed specs, features, and power usage:”
• Intel Product Specifications Comparison Tool
• AMD Processor Product Selector

The motherboard is like the wiring diagram of your entire PC. It connects all your components, handles power distribution, and defines what features you can use, like how much RAM you can install, whether you can overclock, or if you will have to survive without USB C.
Most people overspend or under research their motherboard. Let us not do that.
First, your CPU and motherboard must be on speaking terms.
| CPU Type | Socket | Chipsets You Will See |
|---|---|---|
| Intel 12th to 14th Gen | LGA 1700 | H610, B660, B760, Z690, Z790 |
| AMD Ryzen 5000, AM4 | AM4 | A520, B550, X570 |
| AMD Ryzen 7000+, AM5 | AM5 | B650, X670, X670E |
Tip:
Motherboards come in three sizes:
| Size | Description | Use Case |
|---|---|---|
| ATX | Standard size, full features | Most gaming or work builds |
| Micro ATX, mATX | Smaller, fewer ports | Budget and compact builds |
| Mini ITX | Very small, tight fit | Niche compact builds, tricky for beginners |
Check your case size to make sure the board will fit.
If you are using a mid to high end CPU, you need stable power delivery. This is where VRMs, Voltage Regulator Modules, come in.
A solid B550 or B660 board will often outperform a cheap X570 or Z690 if it has better VRMs.

Look for:

These make your build easier and safer:
The motherboard is not where you flex your budget. It is where you secure stability, compatibility, and future options. Pick a reliable board that matches your CPU, fits your case, and gives you the ports and features you need, nothing more, nothing less.

RAM is where your PC temporarily stores data it needs right now. The more demanding your tasks, gaming, video editing, running 37 Chrome tabs while streaming Spotify and arguing on Reddit, the more RAM you need.
RAM is not just about quantity. Speed, configuration, and compatibility all matter.
| Use Case | Minimum | Ideal |
|---|---|---|
| Office / School | 8GB | 16GB |
| Gaming, 1080p to 1440p | 16GB | 16 to 32GB |
| Streaming / Editing | 16GB | 32GB+ |
| 3D Rendering / Dev Work | 32GB | 64GB+ |
For most users, 16GB in dual channel, 2x8GB, is the sweet spot.
RAM speed and latency affect performance, especially in AMD systems.
Example:
DDR4 3200 CL16 is faster in real use than DDR4 3600 CL22, despite the higher MHz.
For AMD systems especially, balanced speed and latency improves FPS and system responsiveness.
| Type | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|
| DDR4 | Widely available, cheaper | Slightly slower, older platforms |
| DDR5 | Higher bandwidth, future proof | More expensive, needs compatible CPU and motherboard |
If you are on a tight budget or building with Ryzen 5000 or Intel 12th or 13th gen, DDR4 is still perfectly fine.
If you are going AM5 or Intel 14th gen and want to future proof, DDR5 is the way to go.
Dual channel equals faster bandwidth and real world performance.
Always buy RAM in pairs unless you are planning to upgrade to dual later.
New to XMP or DOCP? Here is the simple setup I use in HWiNFO to sanity check RAM speeds and temps after enabling profiles.
RAM affects your system smoothness, not just how many tabs you can open. Go for at least 16GB, make sure it is in dual channel, and do not cheap out on speed or compatibility. If you are building for heavier workloads, jump to 32GB+ and DDR5 when the platform allows it.

Gone are the days of watching your PC boot while you make coffee. Solid state drives have made spinning hard drives feel like floppy disks. If you are still thinking about using one as your main drive, I am here to stop you gently but firmly.
| Type | Description | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| SSD, Solid State Drive | Fast, silent, no moving parts | Boot drive, apps, games |
| HDD, Hard Disk Drive | Mechanical, slower, cheap | Mass storage only, media, backups |
SSDs are at least ten times faster than HDDs in real use.
SATA SSD:
NVMe SSD, M.2:
Do not assume all M.2 drives are NVMe, some are SATA. Check specs.
Not sure if NVMe is worth it? See our real world SSD performance tests in games.
| Usage Type | Recommended Setup |
|---|---|
| Basic Office PC | 500GB SSD, SATA or NVMe |
| Gaming PC | 500GB to 1TB NVMe SSD, boot + games |
| Hybrid Build | 1TB NVMe + optional 1 to 2TB HDD for mass storage |
| Editing / Creative Work | 1TB+ NVMe SSD main, 2TB+ HDD archives |
Tip: Try to avoid 256GB SSDs, you will run out of space before your first Steam sale ends.
Ever see TBW or MTBF on a product spec sheet?
Higher TBW is better for editing heavy workloads.
For average users, even entry level SSDs will last 5 to 10 years easily.
Do not limit your SSD to just the OS. Use it for:
If it takes time to load or launch, it belongs on the SSD.
| Setup | Description |
|---|---|
| Option 1, 1TB NVMe SSD only | One fast drive, clean and simple, perfect for most |
| Option 2, 500GB NVMe + 2TB HDD | Fast boot and apps + massive file storage |
| Option 3, 1TB NVMe + 1TB SATA SSD | All solid state, fast and flexible, ideal for mid tier builds |
Storage is more than capacity. It is about speed, reliability, and sanity. Your PC will feel much faster with even a basic SSD. Go NVMe if you can. Use an HDD only if you really need mass storage. Do not cheap out here, your daily experience depends on it, and real world SSD performance in gaming proves the difference.

If your CPU is the brain, the GPU is the muscle, especially for gaming, 3D rendering, editing, or AI workloads. It is also usually the most expensive part of any build, and the most marketing hyped.
Not every build needs a high end RTX monster. Let us break down what you actually need.
You might not, seriously.
| Use Case | GPU Needed? | Explanation |
|---|---|---|
| Office Work | ❌ No | Integrated graphics are fine, APUs or Intel iGPUs |
| Casual Gaming | ❓ Maybe | Entry level APU or older budget card can work |
| AAA Gaming, 1080p+ | ✅ Yes | Needs dedicated GPU for smooth performance |
| Video Editing / 3D | ✅ Yes | GPU acceleration saves hours of render time |
Tip: AMD APUs like Ryzen 5 5600G have capable built in graphics for basic tasks and light gaming.
No point in spending 600 dollars on a GPU if your monitor is 1080p 60 Hz.
| Monitor Resolution | Ideal GPU Tier |
|---|---|
| 1080p 60 Hz | GTX 1650, RX 6500 XT, Arc A380 |
| 1080p 144 Hz | RTX 3060, RX 6600 XT |
| 1440p 60 to 144 Hz | RTX 3070, RX 6700 XT |
| 4K or Ultrawide | RTX 4070+, RX 7900 XTX |
Also consider game types:
Chasing smooth over bragging rights? Cap your FPS to a steady target and tune from there. Start with Cap Your FPS, Seriously, Stop Flexing.

Tip: Modern games like Hogwarts Legacy and Starfield already choke GPUs with less than 8GB VRAM at higher settings.
| Cooler Type | Description | Use Case |
|---|---|---|
| Single Fan | Compact, runs hotter or louder | Small form factor or budget cards |
| Dual Fan | Balanced cooling and noise | Most mid range builds |
| Triple Fan | Better thermals, quieter, larger | High performance cards |
| Blower Style | Exhausts hot air out of case | Niche, best for cramped builds |
| AIO or Water Cooled | Extreme cooling | Overkill unless you are pushing limits |
Before you hit checkout, double check two things:
Used GPUs can be great value or a ticking time bomb.
Pros:
Cons:
Tip: Buy used only from trusted sellers, check return policies, and test thoroughly.
The GPU is where gaming performance lives, but more is not always better. Buy the GPU that fits your monitor, your games, your power supply, and your case. If you are on a budget, prioritize a solid GPU and make smart sacrifices elsewhere.

The power supply unit is like your PC life support. It will not make your games run faster or your PC look cooler, so people tend to cheap out here, until their 300 dollar GPU gets fried by a sketchy no name PSU.
Let us not be that person.
You do not need a 1000 W PSU unless you are building a dual GPU monster or running an RTX 4090 and a coffee machine on the same cable.
Use a calculator like:
| Build Type | Recommended Wattage |
|---|---|
| Office or Basic Build | 400 to 500 W |
| Mid Range Gaming, RTX 3060 | 550 to 650 W |
| High End, RTX 4070, Ryzen 7 | 650 to 750 W |
| Enthusiast, RTX 4080+, overclocking | 850 to 1000 W+ |
Always add 20 to 30 percent headroom. Future upgrades, spikes in draw, and PSU longevity depend on it.
Unsure on connectors and rail limits? Our compatibility mistakes checklist covers PCIe power, 12VHPWR adapters, and common pitfalls.
80 Plus ratings measure how efficiently your PSU converts wall power into usable PC power.
| Rating | Efficiency | Typical Use Case |
|---|---|---|
| 80 Plus Bronze | About 85% | Budget to mid range builds |
| 80 Plus Gold | About 90% | Gaming and creator builds |
| 80 Plus Platinum | About 92% | High end or quiet focused builds |
Tip: The higher the rating, the less power is wasted as heat, and the cooler and quieter your PSU will run.
| Type | Description | Pros |
|---|---|---|
| Non Modular | All cables attached | Cheapest, messy cables |
| Semi Modular | Some fixed cables | Good middle ground |
| Fully Modular | Only plug in what you need | Best for airflow and cable management |
If your case has limited cable space, go modular. Your fingers and sanity will thank you.
Do not just look at wattage. Make sure your PSU has proper protection:
These features help prevent your PSU from frying your motherboard or GPU in a power surge.

Reputable Brands:
Brands to Be Cautious With:
Always check real world reviews and teardown reports. Do not trust the label alone.
The power supply will not give you higher FPS, but it can kill your entire rig if it fails. Choose a reputable, efficient PSU with headroom and the right connectors for your build.

The case is more than a pretty shell. It dictates your cooling, cable management, and whether building your PC feels like assembling furniture blindfolded.
Choose a case that breathes, fits, and future proofs your setup.
Your motherboard and GPU size will help decide your case.
| Case Size | Fits These Boards | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Full Tower | ATX, E ATX | Extreme builds, water cooling |
| Mid Tower | ATX, mATX, ITX | Most gaming or creator builds |
| Mini Tower | mATX, ITX | Budget or compact builds |
| Small Form Factor, SFF | ITX only | Space saving, advanced users |
Tip: Mid towers are the safest, most flexible pick for most users.
Airflow equals lower temps, quieter fans, better performance.
| Case Front | Airflow | Aesthetic |
|---|---|---|
| Mesh | ✅ Best | Clean, functional |
| Tempered Glass | ❌ Worst | Pretty, runs hotter |
| Hybrid, Mesh + Glass | 👍 Balanced | Style and performance |
Mesh front with built in fans is ideal. Bonus if the top has open vents too.
Before buying a case, check:
Tip: Manufacturers usually list this info in the spec sheet.

Do not just go by looks. Check for:
RGB, tempered glass, vertical GPU mounts, all fine if airflow is not compromised. If the case looks like a spaceship but chokes your GPU, it is a no.
Pick a case that fits your components, keeps your system cool, and does not make building a nightmare. Mesh airflow, space to build, decent pre installed fans, and clean cable routing make life easy.

Building the tower is only half the story. If your keyboard feels like it was made from leftover bricks and your CPU is melting under a stock cooler, you will not enjoy using that dream rig. Let us fix that.
Tip: Stock coolers are okay for non overclocked builds, they get hot and loud under load.
| Type | Example | Use Case |
|---|---|---|
| Air Cooler | be quiet! Pure Rock 2, Noctua NH U12S | Quiet, reliable, budget friendly |
| AIO Liquid Cooler | Corsair H100i, Arctic Liquid Freezer II | Better thermals, cleaner look, more maintenance |
Tip: If your case has poor airflow, a better cooler is not optional, it is survival.

Tip: A good mouse and keyboard can last across multiple PC builds.

Buying a good GPU and pairing it with a 60 Hz 720p monitor is a waste.
Also check for panel type, response time, and G Sync or FreeSync support.
Once your build is up, sanity check frame pacing and temps with our safe performance testing workflow.


Many motherboards still do not come with Wi Fi or Bluetooth, especially budget ATX boards.
Tip: Streaming, pairing a controller, or wireless headphones, you will want Bluetooth.
Your PC performance is only as good as the cooling and gear supporting it. Do not overlook your CPU cooler. Do not cheap out on your monitor. Make sure your peripherals match the power of your build.

You have selected your CPU, motherboard, RAM, GPU, cooler, storage, PSU, and case. Before you hit checkout and summon the cardboard gods of delivery, do a full compatibility check.
Nothing is worse than discovering your new cooler blocks your RAM or your case cannot fit that triple fan GPU.
PCPartPicker is your new best friend. It will:
Tip: You can switch to local versions for pricing in your region, UK, EU, Australia, Canada, and more.

If you’ve made it through all 10 steps, congrats, you’re no longer just “buying parts.” You’re engineering a custom PC that fits your needs, budget, and style. Whether it’s for gaming, content creation, or just reclaiming your digital independence, this machine is yours — and built right. Once it’s up and running, here’s how to test your gaming PC’s performance safely.
Added Bonus:
Before locking in your final parts list, run it through PCPartPicker to catch any compatibility issues and check power requirements. Even if all your parts technically fit together, sloppy planning during a GPU swap can wreck performance. Already picked your parts? Don’t miss PC Part Compatibility Mistakes Everyone Still Makes — a checklist of the gotchas that still ruin builds in 2025., and how to dodge them before you hit the power button.
Extra Bonus: For a real-world example, check out our ultra-budget 2025 build that balances performance with price.
And
For users still deciding between processors:
“Still comparing CPUs? Use these official tools to see detailed specs, features, and power usage:”
• Intel Product Specifications Comparison Tool
• AMD Processor Product Selector
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